Come to Colorful Cartagena, Colombia!

Cartegana Colombia is where you’ll find clear blue Caribbean waters, sunny skies with a tropical climate, good natured people, colorful colonial architecture, rich historical significance, spirited nightlife, and the blended Afro-Caribbean, Indigenous, European and Arab cultures that are, of course, the reason for the best food, interesting art, unique rhythms, and traditional  cultural dance. 

Cartagena is both romantic and gritty, and Colombians are warm, friendly, and have a lightheartedness that’s infectious. This jewel of the Indies is one of South America’s most beautiful, fascinating and safest cities! 

Cartagena de Indias, known since Colonial times as the “Queen of the Caribbean Coast” is one of the largest ports on the Northern Coast of Colombia, and a welcoming gateway to South America.  

The Old Walled City, a fortress itself, is surrounded by 13km of thick walls and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Construction of the walls began in the 1500s and took over two centuries to complete. The walls served as protection for Spain’s booty of gold, crops, and slaves against its enemies, most often pirates — the most infamous being Sir Francis Drake. If you want to hear some tales of the true “Pirates of the Caribbean” this is just the place!  

Today, this superbly preserved, historic and vibrant city retains its 16th century charm, which you’ll see for yourself as you meander through the cobbled streets and alleyways, taking in the sights of the pastel colored colonial buildings, imposing churches and monasteries, plazas and  palaces, bougainvillea draped balconies, and women beautifully dressed in bright palettes sharing their tradition of Cumbia dancing or selling fruit in the shaded leafy square. Doors were something of a status symbol in Cartagena so keep a look out for their elaborate knockers — many of which are animals or sea monsters! You can also take a stroll on the walls themselves (a tradition called ‘paseo’), stoping at one of  the local cafes or catching the sunset as you look out over the sweeping Caribbean Sea. 

In short, the Old Walled City is oozing with with history and feels like a walk back in time! Just beyond the city walls, there are varied and interesting neighborhoods, each with its own unique personality…  

Bocagrande, one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the country, is this glamorous, modern, and upscale high-rise heaven where you’ll discover beautiful hotels with a multitude of amenities and gorgeous pools, and golden sand beaches. The Old City and Bocagrande are on opposite sides of the spectrum but compliment one another perfectly — the old and the new. This is where we have chosen to stay for our week in Cartagena because you’ll get a much better nights rest! The Old City is certainly exciting but can be very noisy at night! Don’t worry, though — this is just a short distance away and we will have plenty of time to spend in both  neighborhoods! 

Getsemani, linked by a walkway from the Old Town, has more modest architecture and, once considered to be a bit “sketchy,” is quickly becoming a backpackers hub with a laid-back vibe. With plenty of atmosphere, burgeoning street art and stylistic murals, trendy restaurants, salsa clubs, street performers, and boutique hostels, this once “no-go zone” is now considered to be one of the “coolest” bohemian neighborhoods in Colombia.

San Basilio de Palenque is just 35 miles southeast of the city and is inhabited by only about 3,500 residents. Referred to as Palenke by the locals and founded by escaped slaves in the 17th century, this village was the first free African town in the Americas and still holds onto its traditions, culture, and language (Palenquero). In 2005, this village was declared as a  Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, as well being designated A Place of National Character and Cultural Interest by the Colombian government. 

La Boquilla is a small fishing village located between the sea and the swamp with vast canal networks constructed to allow fishermen to get from their villages to the sea — where, today the previously unexplored fisherman’s canals can be be experienced by paddling through the mangrove forests in a canoe, discovering the various wildlife and plants. Additionally, 200 meters of one of the world’s ecologically awarded beaches for having pure water, safety and protocols that protect the ecosystem can also be found and enjoyed here! 

You will find several other fortifications located at strategic points, the most famous of which is the massive Castillo de San Félipe de Barajas looming over the city. This is considered to be the largest and perhaps the most impressive colonial fortress in all of South America!  Built in the year 1536 and still dominating Cartagena’s cityscape, this marvel of architecture and engineering helped in the protection of the city and its people and was never overtaken despite numerous attempts to storm it. An elaborate system of tunnels were constructed below the fort, allowing for provisions and a means of escape if necessary. The tunnels were designed so that noise travelled through them allowing an approaching enemy’s footsteps to be easily heard. Some of the tunnels are still open to visitors if you’re interested in a slightly eerie experience! 

Convento de la Popa, founded by Augustine friars in 1609, was initially just a small wooden chapel sitting on the highest point in Cartagena. Two centuries later, while fortifying the hill, a more prominent structure was constructed. There are narratives describing that the Virgin Mary instructed, in a dream, that a friar build the convent on the hill. 

The Palace of the Inquisition was the site for the notoriously grisly Inquisition in order to stamp out heresy in Colonial Cartagena — interrogating, torturing and killing “witches” or anyone deemed a non-believer in the Catholic faith. In over 800 trials at the palace of the inquisition, not a single “heretic” was found innocent. Now a museum and considered to be one of the finest buildings in the city — cited as one of Cartagena’s best examples of late civil colonial architecture. 

Convento & Iglesia de San Pedro Claver is a church named for Saint Peter Claver, a Spanish Jesuit priest and missionary who lived and died here, and who devoted most of his life to ministering and advocating for the well-being of the slaves brought from Africa to Colombia, attending to their spiritual consolation as well as their civil rights. He is known as the ‘Apostle of the Blacks’  or the ‘Slave of the Slaves’. The convent is a monumental 3-story building surrounded by a tree filled courtyard and is now open as a museum. The remains of San Pedro Claver are contained in a glass coffin in the in the high Italian marble altar of the church.

The Museo del Oro Zenu (The Gold Museum) is like a miniature version of Bogota’s world class gold museum and offers a fascinating collection of the gold and pottery of the Zenu people prior to the Spanish conquest. The artifacts are examples of the expert goldsmith skills of these indigenous inhabitants. It was this elaborate gold work that attracted the Spanish  conquistadores. You will get to glimpse these ancient gold pieces and learn about the cultures  that crafted them. 

There is art everywhere in Cartagena — from the excellent street art to the murals in Getsemani, to the works by the finest local, national and international artists at the Museum of Modern Art. The galleries are housed in a beautiful old stone colonial building where the stone walls and wooden rafters are themselves pieces of art! Definitely worth a peek!  

The area has some natural attractions, too, and if you are in the mood for a mud bath you’re in luck! El Totumo is an active mud volcano (with a spa in its crater!) located just 30 miles outside of Cartagena. The smallest volcano in the country is known for the healing properties of the dense, warm mud containing sulphites, phosphates and magnesium that can remove toxins and heal the skin. You can receive a mud massage by a personal attendant and afterwards bathe in a nearby lagoon. Wear an old bathing suit and footwear as the mud can stain! 

Located off the coast of Cartagena are a collection of 27 small coral islands surrounded by coral reefs known as the Rosario Islands. The area is a protected National Park including the coral reefs and ecosystems, although there are a very small number of privately owned islands. The Caribbean Sea is an incredible color here — a combination of cerulean and turquoise.  Visitors can go to one of the islands owned by a hotel to stay or for just a day trip by taking a boat ride (which is part of the fun)! 

The glass-clear waters of the Caribbean Sea, white sand beaches, palm trees, fresh seafood, and revitalizing fruit juices are waiting for you on Baru Island. Maybe you’ll decide to go snorkeling here or just relax on the beach — or do both? Since this island is less than an hour away from Cartagena, you’ll have plenty of time! 

In order to truly understand Cartagena’s present, you need to have a knowledge of its past, and there is a lot to unpack! The city’s history is certainly not as charming as its buildings — for centuries it was a center for trade but also of conquest, inquisitions, torture, slavery, piracy and the theft of indigenous treasures — including tomb raiding! 

Cartagena was founded in 1533 by Spanish Commander, Pedro de Heredia, who took over an abandoned village known as Calamari and built a settlement of his own. The Spanish sailors who first settled here named the newly established town Cartagena de Indias after its counterpart in Spain. At the time there were only about 200 inhabitants and a church, which was destroyed by fire in the year 1552 — after which the governor decreed that all buildings from then on were to be made only from stone. 

The town’s early wealth came from the the treasures discovered on gravesites of the indigenous Sinu community who buried the dead with all their possessions. The city of Cartagena eventually became the principle port used by the Spanish to transport the riches stolen from other indigenous groups, like the Inca in what is now Peru, back to Europe.

Because of the riches to be found here and the start of the slave trade, based on orders by the King of Spain in the 17th Century (just adding to the wealth), pirates made regular attacks on Cartagena, causing the need for a fortress and wall to be built. After an intense and deadly battle between Britain and Spain in 1741, ending in Spanish victory, more fortifications were added to the city making this the most well-protected port in South America. 

In 1811 Cartagena was the first city to declare its independence from Spain, but this attempt at freedom failed until, when a decade later, during the War of Independence, the city again declared its independence — recovering well and maintaining its importance as a trade port. 

Despite everything, the old walled city of Cartagena remains unchanged with its historic buildings and colonial architecture preserved perfectly. 

The impact of the history of the Spanish, Europeans, Africans (brought against their will) and the early Indigenous cultures are also a key factor in what makes Cartagena such an interesting, creative, and vibrant society today. The music, art, traditional dances and unique food can all be attributed to the blend of ancestry, and we are so fortunate that we get to learn about it, appreciate it and experience it!

Lynne Ogren is a retired New York State Spanish teacher and professional development consultant specializing in Social-Emotional Learning. In her 32 years of teaching, she taught K-12 Spanish and English, including the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program to both Colombia and Mexico. As a certified YogaKids and Yoga Ed instructor, Lynne used yoga as a vehicle for teaching Spanish as well as mindfulness to her students.  

Cartagena holds a special place in Lynne’s heart since she first taught English there in 1988-89. Since that time, Lynne has returned frequently to spend time with friends, and has watched Cartagena grow and flourish into a popular tourist destination for travelers from all over the world, as well as from within Colombia. She is excited to share her passion for Cartagena, Colombia’s culture, language and history!

Based out of NYC, Gina Benson is a Registered Yoga Teacher and certified Ayurveda Practitioner and Holistic Nutritionist. She has a deep respect for both practices and, in 2017, created Yogaveda Health & Healing with the mission to dedicate her life, studies, and career to bettering the experience of living for others. Gina's vivacious personality, gentle heart, and strong faith make her the optimal healer. With her love of Yoga and Ayurveda (Yogaveda), as well as her specialty in women's health, Gina believes she can change the lives of many by bringing them to a state of balance and peaceful harmony. Gina hopes to spread the knowledge and healing powers of these practices with her clients and students to help maintain healthy lifestyles customized for every individual. To learn more about Gina and her offerings, visit www.yogavedahealth.com.

“I can’t say enough about my travels with Grace in Nature. Karen Score is the epitome of grace while attending to every last detail of the entire trip, beginning to end. After extensive research and knowledge from previous travel, Karen plans for a trip full of fun, education and relaxation. On top of all that her trips are very affordable, especially considering the high end accommodations I’ve enjoyed. Don’t think twice, book the very next trip offered by Grace in Nature.”

— Extremely satisfied traveler, Carol Glansberg

“Don’t think about it. Just do it! Karen plans every detail from seamless transfers, top notch accommodations, wonderful meals and incredible excursions. You will not have to think or worry about any aspect of your trip. My experience far exceeded my expectations. Plenty of time to explore on your own or rest. Many activities and excursions offered but no pressure to participate. Just kindness, support and understanding every step of the way. Beautiful, intelligent yoga classes offered by Gina. You will feel encouraged, rested and refreshed.  I can not recommend more highly.  After traveling with Karen and Gina, it is the only way I ever want to travel.”

— Michelle Pollard

READ MORE...